I suppose I ought to say something about this take on Pinot noir from Bortoli in the Yarra Valley. Not much of an invitation to read this review - Is it ?
The wine is from the vintage with the bush fires in the hotter areas of the valley, and was a bit of a mistake - I wanted a go on the '08 but my dear Misses who picked it up during the Sains Xmas 25% off promo for any 6, was not available on the mobile, once she had got to check-out. I forgot to tell her to avoid the '09, before she went, perhaps there was no '08 on the shelf ?
On first opening the nose is pretty benign, other than Benylin and an old iron tonic drink that you bought from a chemist in the 70's. The guy who makes this wine gets 9 out of 10 for effort in trying, but regretably only a 5 in the resulting wine, Alc 13%. The style is a very light village Santenay, a burgundy that quite often has a typical sappy and savoury edge in less ripe years, but sufficient oak to fill the hole in the overall palate spectrum.
This wine is lean and hollow when 1st opening, very light cherry and that preserved cocktail bitter cherry flavour, the kind you get with the ones they shove in a cheap cocktail, some cherry stone, a little pith which is interesting, and high acidity which throws the wine off balance because it is too citric for the depth of fruit. A touch of sulphites there on the 1st glass that you could mistake for a bushfire note.
I put the cap back on.
2 days later and the wine was a little fuller, better cherry pinot and some red mulberry (not deep and dark ripe), a little pith still there, and acidity had calmed down, and that savoury edge had rounded out quite a bit. No oak treatment that I feel the wine needs, no 'sous bois' nor herby, but just enough interest to keep going with it. Not a wine to find many friends, but probably satisfactory with cold white meats and poultry.
IMO ....There is hope, when made in this style on a better vintage and when the producer tries the subtle use of some french oak.
Jamie Goode is more diplomatic about the '07, which is more than likely, a better vintage and £2 less to buy.
Gulf Station PN '07
NB, the '09 vintage is not a really good food wine, and I have no experience in ageing a pinot noir with such skinny fruit and no oak. Acidity would keep it fresh for a long time though.
I will try again on a better year provided there is a promo running at the time.