Wine Article



Morrisons - I don't know what to say


If I were completely honest, then most of this introduction would consist of four letter words and exclamation marks, with a few question marks. The tasting questioned my palate, the reason I do this job and the sanity of Morrisons. The wines were so drearily, painfully poor and the faces of the wine writers so glum, that even the bustling Thames failed to excite. There are usually exchanges between us as we taste. Maybe positive little sighs, or “make sure you taste the Barolo”, “this one’s corked”, or “not as good as the Sainsbury’s” along with “are you going on to X tasting afterwards” and “did your daughter pass her driving test”. We mutter away to each other. This time little was said, eyes were raised heavenwards and we were mutinously silent. The conversation next day at Asda – where the wines seemed, but also were, very good – was of the stark comparison.

 
I’ve never tasted a more dire range of wines. Pick your way through to find the moderately reasonable ones, if you feel inclined. The Morrisons Best Champagne wasn’t bad, similarly the Touraine Sauvignon, Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre, Petit Chablis, Auslese, Marlborough Sauvignon, Verdelho/Chardonnay, the cheap Beaujolais and claret, the Reserve Cotes du Rhone, Crux and Sacred Hill Sauvignons were perfectly reasonable. The rest are awful.
 
Morrisons Pinot Grigio Frizzante NV, Venezie  £5.69
Light, peary nose. Quite pleasantly fruity. Just slightly fizzy. A little more flavour than Prosecco. 
Made by Schenk Italia
11.5%
Pinot Grigio 100%  
 
Morrisons Best Prosecco NV, Prosecco  £9.99
Almost no aroma. Slightly bitter taste - not unpleasant - which lasts well. Not bad.
Made by Schenk Italia
11.0%
Prosecco 100%  
 
Morrisons Pinot Grigio Spumante Rose NV, Venezie £9.99
Very light salmon pink colour. A little pinkness on the nose. Very light taste, with a touch of strawberry. Not bad at all.
Made by Schenk Italia
11.5%
Pinot Grigio 96%, Raboso 4%,  
 
Morrisons Cava Brut NV, Cava £6.79
Not much smell. Perhaps a little Labrador. Simple and not unpleasant.
Made by Freixenet
11.5%
Macabeo 33%, Parellada 33%, Xarel.lo 33%
 
Morrisons Cava Rose NV, Cava £6.79
Not much smell. Bitter and depressing.
Made by Freixenet
12.0%
Trepat 90%, Garnacha 10%,  
 
Morrisons Champagne NV, Champagne  £17.79
Ripe nose but not much biscuit or interest. Reasonable taste. Some weight, texture length.
Made by Champagne Boizel
12.0%
Pinot Meunier 43%, Pinot Noir 34%, Chardonnay 23%
 
Morrisons Best Champagne NV, Champagne £19.99
Ripe, rounded and also biscuity nose. At least £2 better than the ordinary champagne. Tastes great too, if you like a tasty champagne. Quite deep colour.
Made by Champagne Boizel
12.0%
Pinot Noir 55%, Chardonnay 30%, Pinot Meunier 15%
 
Morrisons Best Rose Champagne NV, Champagne  £19.99
Pale salmon pink. Little on the nose. Good taste. Just enough texture, but very refreshing and with a clean finish. Good.
Made by Champagne Lombard
12.5%
Chardonnay 60%, Pinot Noir 40%,  
 
Morrisons Italian Pinot Grigio NV, Venezie £4.49
Green aroma, with a hint of sulphur. Foul taste. The worst sort of PG. Bitter, soluble aspirin taste with no fruit. Jeeps.
Made by Cavit
12.0%
Pinot Grigio 100%  
 
Morrisons Orvieto Classico 2010, Umbria £4.99
Neutral nose. Flabby taste. Nobody at home.
Made by Piccini
12.0%
Grechetto 90%, Procanico 10%,  
 
Morrisons Best Gavi 2010, Piemonte £7.49
A little ripe fruit on the nose. Some fruit, some savoury nose, a little grapefruit pith on the finish. OK, but the Ttd is a lot better.
Made by Araldica
12.0%
Cortese 100%  
 
Morrisons Muscadet 2010, Val de Loire £4.29
Little on the nose. Lemony acidity, fresh. Little more.
Made by GCF GROUP
12.0%
Melon de Bourgogne 100 %  
 
Morrisons Touraine Sauvignon 2010, Loire £6.45
Elder and some cat on the nose. Tangy, bright and interesting. Good length. Good, altogether.
Made by Chainier
12.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100%  
 
Morrisons Best Pouilly Fume 2009, Loire £10.99
An oddly ripe nose for Loire sauvignon. Almost like a pudding wine. Assuming it's not botrytis. Lovely and dry in the mouth and very tangy and full of flavour. Lasts well. Good.
Made by Pierre Fouassier
13.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100% 
 
Morrisons Best Sancerre 2009, Loire £10.99
The nose has the same ripeness as the Pouilly Fume. Made by the same producer. This is bright and interesting with some ripe, almost tropical, fruit. Good.
Made by Pierre Fouassier
13.5%
Sauvignon Blanc 100% 
 
Morrisons French Chardonnay NV, Languedoc £4.15
Little on the nose. It's a dry white wine. Not bad and certainly good for the money.
Made by Jean Jean
13.0%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons Petit Chablis2009, Burgundy£7.85
Mmmm. Nice nose. Creamy but refreshing. Very inviting. Full-flavoured and very nice indeed. Good price. *
Made by Union des Viticulteurs de Chablis
12.5%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons Best Chablis 2009, Burgundy £9.15
Clean, green zingy nose. Bone dry, almost austere. Definitely one for the purists, but I have some impure tastes and prefer the Petit Chablis.
Made by Union des Viticulteurs de Chablis
12.5%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons Macon Villages 2009, Burgundy £6.19
Nice, clean, unoaked chardonnay nose. A touch of bitterness on the palate. Disappointing.
Made by Vignerons des Grandes Vignes
12.5%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons Mosel Riesling 2009, Mosel £6.99
A tiny hint of sweet grapeyness on the nose. Luscious, sweet taste with a grapefruity twang. Good.
Made by Reh Kendermann GmbH
8.5%
Riesling 100%  
 
Morrisons Best Auslese 2009, Mosel £8.49
Little on the nose. Some weight of ripe, sweet fruit. Also green and refreshing. Chilled, on the patio. Mmm.
Made by Reh Kendermann GmbH
8.0%
Riesling 100%  
 
Morrisons Best South African Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Western Cape £6.39
Some sauvignon character and also some weight of ripeness. Tangy, dry and pleasant taste, with a catty flavour.
Made by DGB
12.5%
Sauvignon 100%  
 
Morrisons South African Chenin Blanc 2010, Western Cape £6.19
Little on the nose. Bone dry. Aperitif, perhaps.
Made by DGB
13.5%
Chenin Blanc 100% 
 
Morrisons Chilean Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Aconcagua £6.27
Very catty, perfumed, typical nose. Tart, refreshing and linear. Good.
Made by William Cole
12.5%
Sauvignon Blanc 100%  
 
Morrisons Chilean Chardonnay 2010, Valie Central£4.99
A bit stinky. Has some texture, some ripeness but is also bitter and disjointed.
Made by Vina Ventisquero
13.0%
Chardonnay 100% 
 
Morrisons Best Chilean Chardonnay 2010, Aconcagua £7.49
Not much on the nose. Bone dry, with a grapefruit finish. Price about right. Good standard.
Made by William Cole
13.5%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons The Best Malborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough £7.99
Very catty, fragrant and typical nose. Tangy, bright and exciting. Like it very much. I'd buy this for home.
Made by Wine Export Partners NZ
13.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100% 
 
Morrisons Australian Chardonnay NV, South Eastern £4.79
Rather pleasant nose. Bacony oak. A hint of oak in the mouth. Quite a bacony aftertaste but not bad, for the price.
Made by Kingston Estate
13.0%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons Verdelho Chardonnay 2010, South Eastern £6.49
Ripe, golden and inviting. Very ripe taste and quite weighty. Long flavour. Spicy and full. It's doing a bit of a marsanne/roussanne thing.
Made by Kingston Estate
13.0%
Verdelho 56% , Chardonnay 44% ,  
 
Morrisons Best Australian Chardonnay 2007, South Australia £7.99
Nice oak on the nose. Oaky palate but enough freshness and zing to make it a lovely mouthful.
Made by Geoff Merrill Wines
13.5%
Chardonnay 100%  
 
Morrisons Beaujolais 2009, Beaujolais £4.49
Very pale colour doesn't bode well. Nice fruity nose. Light, fruity and in a screwcap. Am thinking picnics. Cracking price. +
Made by Alliance Beaujolaise
12.5%
Gamay 100%  
 
Morrisons Beaujolais Villages 2009, Beaujolais £6.29
Gentle nose. Warmly fruity but quite restrained. Tart, dry and refreshing. Nicely untannic and not difficult.
Made by FDL
12.5%
Gamay 100%  
 
Morrisons Best Fleurie 2009, Beaujolais £8.49
Quite a pleasantly animal nose. More tannin than previous Beauj but much more proper food friendly. A little violet on the finish.
Made by FDL
13.0%
Gamay 100%  
 
Morrisons French Cabernet Sauvignon NV, Languedoc £4.49
Slightly stalky nose. Dry red wine. Not unpleasant.
Made by Jean Jean
12.5%
Cabenet Sauvignon 100%  
 
Morrisons Claret 2009, Bordeaux £4.99
Mmm. Nice oaky taste. Good. Nice oaky clarety taste. Cracking price. Good little wine. +
Made by GCF GROUP
13.0%
Merlot 70 %, Cabernets 30 %,  
 
Morrisons Claret Reserve NV, Bordeaux £6.79
Spicy, oaky nose. Nice feel. Good balance, right fruit/wood feel. Not bad at all, and it's Non Vintage.
Made by Maison Sichel
12.5%
Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 40%,  
 
Morrisons Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009, Rhone £5.45
Purple nose. To clarify, like cheap blackcurrant squash. Pleasant enough glugging wine.
Made by Grands Vins Sélection
13.0%
Grenache 70% , Syrah 30% ,  
 
Morrisons Cotes du Rhone Reserve2009, Rhone£6.15
Quite ripe on the nose. Fair taste, actually. Nice bit of spice, good feel. A real food wine
Made by Les Deux Rhones
14.0%
Grenache 60%, Syrah 40%,  
 
Morrisons Best Chateauneuf du Pape 2009, Rhone £14.79
Very pale colour for Chateauneuf. Fierce alcohol, with no body to back it up. 15%. What are they thinking?
Made by Le Cellier des Princes
15.0%
Grenache 90%, Mourvedre 5%, Syrah 5%
 
Morrisons Italian Merlot NV, Venezie £4.79
The green stalky aroma of so many Venetian merlots. However, it's quite inviting, along the lines of a Cabernet Franc's refreshing nose. Quite a pleasant taste, as well. Good for the price.
Made by Cavit
12.0%
Merlot 100%  
 
Morrisons Chianti 2009, Tuscany £5.19
Spicy, woody nose. Very inviting. Good taste as well. Very reasonable price. +
Made by Piccini
12.5%
Sangiovese 95%, Cabernet 5%,  
 
Morrisons Best Chianti Classico 2008, Tuscany £6.99
A little fragrant oak and some appealing baked fruit. Smooth, a little oaky, in the mouth. Quite good.
Made by Piccini
13.0%
Sangiovese 95%, Cabernet 5%,  
 
Morrisons Best Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009, Abruzzo £6.99
Odd to have a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo at the same price as a Chianti Classico. Rich, ripe, dark nose. Actually, it's as good as the Chianti. Nicely oaky, smooth and savoury.
Made by Piccini
13.0%
Montepulciano 97%, Merlot 3%,  
 
Morrisons Best Valpolicella Ripasso 2009, Veneto £6.99
Smells of pink candy. Tastes similar. There are better Ripasso's on the market.
Made by Cantina di Soave
13.0%
Corvina 70%, Molinara 20%, Rondinella 10%
 
Morrisons Rioja Crianza 2007, Rioja £7.79
Inviting American oak. Pretty sweet-smelling. A fair Rioja Crianza.
Made by Bodegas Castillo de Fuenmayor
12.5%
Tempranillo 95%, Garnacha 5%,  
 
Morrisons Rioja Reserva 2006, Rioja £9.49
Very sweet nose. Not a £9.49 wine.
Made by Bodegas Castillo de Fuenmayor
12.5%
Tempranillo 90%, Graciano 5%, Garnacha 5%
 
Morrisons Chilean Cabernet Carmenere 2010, Valie Central £4.99
Confected. Sweet and warm taste.
Made by Vina Ventisquero
13.0%
Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Carmenere 15%,  
 
Morrisons Chilean Carmenere 2009, Rapel £7.37
Fruity nose and taste. Not much welly.
Made by William Cole
13.5%
Carmenere 90% , Cabernet Sauvignon 10% ,  
 
Morrisons Best Chilean Pinot Noir 2009, Aconcagua £7.99
Very, very pale colour. Farmyardy nose. Pretty ok for the price. Needs food.
Made by William Cole
13.5%
Pinot Noir 100%  
 
Morrisons South African Shiraz 2010, Western Cape £6.39
Promising dark fruit on the nose. Not bad at all. Quite pleasant.
Made by DGB
14.0%
Shiraz 100%  
 
Morrisons Best South African Pinotage2009, Coastal£7.39
Quite a brown colour. Nicely fragrant. Good flavour as well. Refreshing. Pleasant.
Made by DGB
14.0%
Pinotage 98%, Petit Verdot 2%,  
 
Morrisons Australian Shiraz NV, South Eastern £4.79
Smells old and lifeless. Tastes burnt. Oh dear!
Made by Kingston Estate
13.0%
Shiraz 100%  
 
Morrisons Australian Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon NV, South Eastern £4.79
Very sweet nose. Light and easy.
Made by Kingston Estate
13.0%
 Shiraz 78%, Cabernet 22% ,  
 
Morrisons Best Australian Shiraz 2006, South Australia £8.49
A load of vanilla on the nose. Very vanilla flavoured as well. The price is a bit steep but this is a popular style of wine and so worth getting when it's reduced.
Made by Geoff Merrill Wines
14.5%
Shiraz 100%  
 
Italia Grillo 2010, Sicily £6.79
Ripe, but spicy, on the nose. Fat and southern tasting.
Made by Adria
13.0%
Grillo100%  
 
Les Signatures Mont Tauch Picpoul de Pinet 2010, South of France £7.99
Not a great deal on the nose. A touch of fizz and pithy taste. Savoury and rather grown up.
Made by Mont Tauch
12.5%
Piquepoul 100%
 
Vouvray Clos Palet 2009, Loire £7.35
Lemon balm nose. Off-dry or sweeter and rather nice. Slightly pithy finish. Good.
Made by Chainier
12.5%
Chenin Blanc 100%  
 
Pouilly Fuisse Vieilles Vignes 2008, Burgundy £14.99
Deep golden colour. Almost nothing on the nose. Watery, lacking verve and short.
Made by Vignerons des Grandes Vignes
12.5%
Chardonnay 100% 
 
Ngakuta Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough £5.99
Very strongly, astringently, catty. Catty, quite fragrant taste. Price about right.
Made by Wine Export Partners NZ
13.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100% 
 
Crux Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough £10.49
Sweet, fragrant and appealing nose. Tangy, pithy and pleasant. *
Made by Wine Export Partners NZ
13.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100% 
 
Ara Pathway Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough  £7.99
A bit sulphurous. Thin and astringent.
Made by Ara Wines
13.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100%
 
Sacred Hill Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 75cl 2010, Marlborough £8.99
Lightly fragrant nose. Tangy, dry and pithy. Price as expected. Good.
Made by Sacred Hill
13.0%
Sauvignon Blanc 100%
 
Seifried Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Nelson £9.29
Very light on the nose. Pleasant, fruity enough, dry, clean, long. Pretty good.
Made by Seifried Estate
13.5%
Sauvignon Blanc 100%
 
Valle de Vida Sauv 2010 Chile 2010, Western Cape £ 4.99
Light and fairly fragrant nose. Pleasant enough. Varietally correct. Quite green but refreshing and the price is good.
Made by DGB
14.0%
Chardonnay 100%
 
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2010, South Australia £8.49
Savoury nose. Perfumed, peachy and quite strong in alcohol.
Made by Yalumba
14.0%
Viognier 100%
 
Yalumba Y Series Unoaked Chardonnay 2010, South Australia £8.49
Rich, ripe nose. Nice enough feel, flavour, length.
Made by Yalumba
14.0%
Chardonnay 100%
 
Barolo Cantine Gemma 2005, Piemonte £14.49
Vanilla and mahogany aroma. Yum. Fresh, light, spicy with tongue-coating tannins expected. Good price.
Made by Cantine Gemma
14.0%
Nebbiolo 100%
 
Cosme Palacio Vendimia Seleccionada 2007, Rioja £10.19
Massively American oaky nose. Really shouts at you. Sweet, spicy and very oaky. Good. Very vanilla-perfumed aftertaste.
Made by Bodegas Palacio
13.0%
Tempranillo 100%
 
Ara Pathway Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough  £10.49
Lovely Pinot nose. Juicy, fresh and tasty. Maybe a little light.
Made by Ara Wines
13.0%
Pinot Noir 100%
 
Yali Cab Franc Reserve 2009, Colchagua £8.39
Dark, sweet and spicy. Bears no resemblance to anything grown in the Loire. Dry and stalky but with a fair wack of fruit. Not bad.
Made by Vina Ventisquero
13.5%
Cabernet Franc 85%
 
Yali Wetland Cab Sauvignon 2010, Colchagua £6.99
Little on the nose. Dry and a bit astringent.
Made by Vina Ventisquero
13.5%
Cabernet Sauvignon 85%
 
I give up. My interest has just died.
 

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